Bequia (pronounced Beckway) is the largest Grenadines island and is well worth a few days of your time if you are visiting St.Vincent and the Grenadines. In this article, I will talk about how to get to the island and the best things to do in Bequia when you get there.
In this article
First Thoughts
Bequia lies 9 miles south of the capital island, St. Vincent. It is only seven square miles with a population of around 5,000. Nevertheless, it has a lot to offer the tourist who is looking to get away from the crowds and have an authentic Caribbean experience. The pace of life here is slower than on more popular holiday islands. There is less development. Unspoilt scenery and secluded beaches are waiting for you. The locals are very friendly and are happy to show you their island.
The local tourist authority calls Bequia ‘the tiny island with a big heart’. I couldn’t agree more!
The Ferry from St Vincent to Bequia
There is a small airport on Bequia, J F Mitchell Airport, but it is largely for charter planes and small private jets. The only international flights are a couple of weekly routes to and from Barbados and St Lucia. Therefore, the vast majority of visitors to Bequia arrive be ferry from St Vincent.
Many locals travel between the islands for work or school, so the ferry service is reliable and efficient. There is no need to book in advance. Simply turn up and buy your ticket as you board the boat. A one-way fare will set you back EC$25 or US$10. The journey takes about an hour. There are two operators on the route, Bequia Express and Admiral Ferries. Both offer several crossings each day with a more limited service on Sundays.
Be aware that if you are arriving by air into St Vincent and are heading straight to Bequia, the last ferry leaves Kingstown at 6pm. It takes around an hour to get from the airport to the ferry terminal. You might need to spend the night on St Vincent.
The Best Time to go to Bequia
High season is from December through to April. This is when it is warm and mainly dry (though don’t forget that Bequia has a tropical climate so it can rain at any time). It is busiest during these months with many visitors from Europe and North America. It is also cruise season. Whilst the harbour in Bequia isn’t big enough to accommodate huge ships, many 200 to 300-passenger vessels do stop here. When a ship is in port, the small beaches are often very crowded – not ideal if you have come to the island seeking peace and quiet.
For me, it’s best to visit Bequia in May and June or November. During these ‘shoulder’ months, the weather is still good and hotels drop their rates to attract travellers.
Where to Stay in Bequia
There are no big resorts in Bequia. Instead, you can choose from a number of small hotels scattered all over the island or a growing number of private rentals advertised through Airbnb.
We stayed in a private holiday let, Bequia Bird House, located close to Port Elizabeth and within walking distance of many of the island’s best beaches.
For further accommodation options, check out Booking.com.
The Best Things to do in Bequia
Explore Port Elizabeth
The pretty little town of Port Elizabeth is the only commercial settlement on Bequia and acts as the island’s capital. It’s best to base yourself here, or just outside, as it is the only place with a supermarket and banking facilities. There are plenty of other small touristy shops, too, as well as a plethora of attractive bars and restaurants.
The island’s main beaches are within walking distance of the town, along the recently-extended Belmont Walkway. This attractive wooden path runs right by the water’s edge from the commercial centre to Princess Margaret Beach and on to Lower Bay. It takes around an hour to walk from one side of the bay to the other. There are plenty of watering holes along the way if you need a breather. If you are not up to the walk (there are quite a few steps to get you up from one beach and down to the next), then you can catch an open-back road taxi from the town centre. Alternatively, a water-taxi will whisk you between the posh yachts anchored in the bay and drop you off directly on the beach of your choice.
For me, this was quite literally the case! We caught a water-taxi from our accommodation to Lower Bay. When we got there, I managed to fall off the boat into the sea! I was fully-clothed and soaked from head to foot. Mark was more concerned about my sodden handbag, which contained our money and passports, than he was about me! There was much hilarity from all who witnessed it. Not my finest hour. I’m just glad there’s no photographic proof of my downfall!! Needless to say, that was the one and only time we took the water-taxi! From then on, we walked!
On days when there is a cruise ship in, lots of craft stalls set up along the promenade in Port Elizabeth. Very nice, but like everything else on the island, very pricey!
Spend the Day at the Beach
One of the best things to do in Bequia is to head to the beach. After all, you came to the island to relax, didn’t you? The beaches are generally palm-fringed with fine white sand and beautiful clear turquoise water which is perfect for snorkelling. The sea tends to be warmer and calmer on the leeward side of the island, but several beaches on the windward side are protected from the worst of the sea breezes by a long coral reef.
Belmont Beach
The first beach you come to if you leave Port Elizabeth on the Belmont Walkway is, unsurprisingly, Belmont Beach. It is a tiny strip of sand in front of a hotel, but the water here is warm and shallow so it’s good for small children. It’s not the most relaxing place as there’s a constant stream of pedestrians passing by all day on their way to or from other beaches.
Princess Margaret Beach
If you pass Belmont, the next beach you’ll come to after negotiating a steep slope and a number of steps is Princess Margaret Beach, named because the UK’s Princess Margaret swam here back in 1958. It is a lovely ribbon of golden sand with a bar at either end and stalls at intervals selling drinks and snacks. It’s a pleasant enough place to spend a few hours – except on a cruise ship day! On such days, the passengers are transferred from their ship to this beach, transforming it into something resembling a crowded Mediterranean beach with no room to move.
Lower Bay
Lower Bay is along from Princess Margaret Beach and is our favourite beach on Bequia. It is the largest stretch of sand and is probably the most popular because it is easily accessible by road or sea from Port Elizabeth. There are plans to extend the Belmont Walkway to Lower Bay but for now, if you’re walking, you have to scramble up a steep track and down the road the other side.
There are a number of very good, and reasonably priced (for Bequia!), bars and restaurants along Lower Bay, making it a favourite venue both during the day and in the evening. It is the location of Keegan’s Restaurant – see below for further details.
The swimming conditions in Lower Bay are very safe. You may need beach shoes to enter the water, though, as there is a coral reef close to shore which gets very slippy.
Friendship Bay, Spring Bay, and Industry Bay
These secluded picturesque beaches are all on the windward coast of Bequia. They get far fewer visitors than those on the leeward side. If you can get there, and it’s not such a breezy day, they are the perfect places to escape the crowds and live the island dream.
Hope Bay
Also on the windward side, Hope Bay has a long, remote and picturesque beach. It is difficult to get to (only accessible by a track) but that makes it all the more exciting and secluded. It has rather shallow waters and a long line of breakers from the Atlantic Ocean which makes it very refreshing and ideal for body surfing and windsurfing, as opposed to a relaxing swim.
Learn About Model Boat Building
Visit the Boat Museum in Port Elizabeth to learn about Bequia’s whaling history (the island is the only one in the Caribbean where fishermen are still allowed to catch whale – they are limited to four animals a year) and to see craftsmen creating intricate scale models of the double-ended whaling ships the island is famous for. Bequia has a long history of boat building and its a delight to see colourful replicas of some of the island’s ships.
Have a Look at the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary
Based near Park Beach in the rugged, remote north-eastern part of Bequia, the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary doesn’t receive that many visitors. It’s worth a trip, though. The sanctuary has been working to protect the endangered hawksbill turtle since 1995. Orton G King is the retired professional diver who set up the project. He still gives tourists lively and entertaining tours today.
Visit Fort Hamilton
Not a great deal remains of this late 18th-century fortification a short walk from the centre of Port Elizabeth, but it is worth a visit for the fantastic views of the whole of Admiralty Bay and beyond.
Hike up to Mount Pleasant
The highest point on Bequia gives panoramic views of the entire island and the Caribbean Sea. It is the perfect spot to watch the sunset.
Go Diving or Snorkelling
Two dive shops run trips to twenty-eight identified dive sites around Bequia. There are also several wrecks and shallow caves accessible to advanced divers. It is not unusual to see Hawksbill turtles, lobsters, moray eels and many kinds of fish. A natural reef lies off much of the coastline and is perfect for snorkelling. Check out this site for more information.
Attend a Festival
Islanders love a festival! Bequia Carnival is a colourful party which takes place in the week of lent each year. If you’re in Bequia at Easter, you’ll enjoy the spectacle of the Easter Regatta when more than 300 boats descend on Port Elizabeth for a long weekend of sailing and competition. In the summer, Bequia Music Fest attracts performers and music fans from all over the Caribbean and beyond. The year in Bequia always ends with a spectacular New Years’s Eve fireworks display.
Enjoy Eating Out
There is a huge choice of restaurants on Bequia. Many serve traditional Caribbean cuisine but there’s also plenty of options for those who fancy pizza or barbecue. Prices are generally more expensive than elsewhere in the Caribbean, even on neighbouring St Vincent. Just tell yourself it’s a treat and go with the flow! Alternatively, make use of your Airbnb kitchen and cater for yourself. We did a bit of both!
Coco’s Place
This upstairs restaurant overlooking the harbour at Port Elizabeth is open-sided so benefits from sea breezes and sunset views. The rum punches are delicious but super-strong! I had to keep watering mine down. One glass lasted me all evening! It wasn’t the case for Mark – he managed three!
The Caribbean cuisine is tasty and well-cooked. We enjoyed our food – mahi-mahi for me and pork creole for Mark – but thought it was expensive. The bill came to £60 for two simple plates and four drinks.
Keegan’s Beachside Restaurant
This is where we ended up eating most often during our stay in Bequia. It’s our kind of place – very relaxed, right on the beach, friendly staff, and serving food and drinks all day, from breakfast through to dinner. The They have rooms, too. We spoke to some people who were staying there and they had nothing but praise for the place.
Take a Trip to a Neighbouring Island
If you are feeling flush and want to explore other Grenadines, you can charter a boat to visit neighbouring Mustique, playground for the rich and famous. You could also go to the Tobago Cays, a collection of small deserted islets which are one of the most beautiful areas in the Caribbean. The Cays are a protected marine park and offer outstanding snorkelling & diving. Another option would be Mayreau, a small island with only 600 residents that lies just west of the Tobago Cays. It is ringed by perfect white sand beaches and is an ideal anchorage for sailing and snorkelling.
READ MY ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES TRAVEL GUIDE
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